Many Italians and Italian Americans follow the tradition based on La Vigilia di Natale, the vigil of the holy night, and do not eat meat on Christmas Eve, the night of the birth of Christ. Because the day is sacred, no meat is consumed, so the typical dinner includes fish. For Italians and Italian Americans, especially those from the southern regions of Italy, the Christmas Eve dinner includes at least seven fishes; but some follow a custom of serving nine, eleven, thirteen, or as many as twenty-one fish dishes.
Fish on Christmas Eve
Each number of fish dishes prepared has a reason—nine dishes are in honor of the Holy Trinity, times three; or for the number of months Mary was with child. Eleven dishes prepared represent the Apostles without Judas, and thirteen represent the Apostles with Jesus. Fish dishes prepared and served by large families and restaurant will sometimes number twenty-one, a derivative of seven.
The Tradition of Seven Fishes
Seven fish dishes is the most common, and the reasons are numerous. The most popular explanation for seven fishes is based on the seven sacraments—Baptism, Confirmation, Holy Communion (Eucharist), Confession (penance), Marriage, Holy Orders, and Anointing of the Sick. The Seven Gifts of the Holy Spirit and the Seven Utterances are also commonly sited. The Seven Gifts are counsel, fortitude, knowledge, understanding, piety, wisdom, and fear of the Lord. The Seven Utterances were the words that Jesus spoke on the cross.
Other reasons for seven fishes are the Seven Hills of Rome, the seven pilgrimage churches in Rome, the Seven Wonders of the World, the seven days that Mary and Joseph traveled to reach Bethlehem, the seven deadly sins, the seven virtues, and seven days in the week.
Traditional Italian Fish Dinner
The menu of fish served varies, depending on what is available. In Italy, the custom is mostly followed in the south, although some northern regions do observe; so the types of fish served and the preparations are as diversified as each province. In America, the custom is observed throughout the country, but family traditions—many handed down from the old country—will dictate the menu.
Most traditional menus include baccala, calamari, eel, scungilli, and smelts. More common types of dishes include anchovies, clams, mussels, shrimp, and lobster. The fish can be prepared in numerous ways, based on family traditions and according to preferences; and the dishes can be served either as separate courses or all at once. Many families today combine various types of fish into one dish. Cioppino, Italian fish stew, is a popular choice, as are large platters containing several different kinds of fish, either fried or broiled. Other common options are seafood salad—either with or without pasta—and stuffed seafood.
Christmas Eve Fish Feast
The Feast of the Seven Fishes reflects on the rich and varied history of Italians and Italian Americans. As with many customs, it has evolved with each generation, but the Christmas Eve Seven Fishes dinner is an important part of Italian culture. By keeping this tradition each Christmas Eve, Italians, and especially Italian Americans, remain close to their Italian heritage.
Sources
Festa: Recipes and Recollections of Italian Holidays by Helen Barolini
Janice Therese Mancuso - Author, journalist, and instructor, Janice Therese Mancuso is the founder of Thirty-One Days of Italians, a nationwide educational program ...
